 After three days on Bornholm we were already sold. This really felt like a dream. The passion and dedication for food that we saw, reflected in organic farming, animal welfare, sustainability and great utilization of local produce had us convinced. Not to mention the stunning nature with beaches in the south, mighty cliffs in the north, and endless fields of rapeseed flowers and forest floor covered in ramsons wherever you wander. However, the true diamond of this island had yet to be explored. Restaurant Kadeau was booked for our Friday evening.  Imagine you went to heaven and there were no pearly gates. No soft clouds to step on or angels with feathered wings. In stead there was a small cottage, soft sand to dig your feet into and white clad waiters. That's what Kadeau felt like. A little paradise on earth. Kadeau opened in 2010 and is co-owned by Magnus Koefoed, Nicolai Nørregaard and Rasmus Kofoed. They have a sister restaurant by the same name in Copenhagen with one Michelin star, as well as a bistro called Pony which also serves Bornholm food. This summer they opened SommerPONY on Bornholm, which will close during winter months just like Kadeau.  We arrived early to take some photos. Our waitor and sommelier for the evening, Kristine, was waiting for us in the doorway. "Should I put some Champagne glasses outside for you?" Yes, please do! We inspected the beach. Sand as soft as cotton. Rumor has it that Napoleon used it for his time glasses. In the horizon is only sea as far as the eye can see. The Baltic sea.  While we were checking out the beach and backyard, our lovely waiter and sommelier Kristine had prepared two glasses of Champagne for us by the entrance; Barrat-Masson "Fleur de Craie".  The dining room with a stunning sea view. Where we were about to experience the "Bornholmerbank" menu.  The edible part of this dish are the two yellow dusted sticks of crispy sourdough. The dust is lichen, a kind of moss.  Smoked celeriac with ramson and red sorrel  Cured duck with cep mushroom dust  Dried beetroot with dust of wild carrot and served with a super tasty blue cheese cream  Leek with a dust of fermented corn  The bread serving at Kadeau was as visually appealing as the rest. Butter dusted with ash of burnt hay  North sea shrimp, pollen yeast and cream with lumpfish roe. This dish immediately reminded us about a similar dish at Ylajali.  A bonus wine to go with a bonus dish we got. Nicholas Maillot, Aligoté 2010 Burgundy.  White asparagus sautéed in butter, with mayo of green herbs from the garden and shaved ham.  Talking about herbs from the garden, we had to take a stroll in the amazing backyard of Kadeau, where they grow a lot of the plants and herbs they use for their presentations. The place reminded us of Amass in Copenhagen, where we dined last year.  Anders found his favorite herb; nasturtium.  We also found "Kodriver" or primula, which we had foraged with Mikkel Marschall a few days earlier.  Back inside we had a fun wine on the table. Love and pif! Yann Durieux 2013 Burgundy  Green asparagus, aromatic herbs, razor clam bouillon & green strawberry wine  Outside Jonas lit a bonfire. The amazing smell of the smoke, which just take you straight back to childhood, started to seep into the restaurant.  Le Vendangeur Masque "Caravan" 2012  Chef and co-owner Nicolai Nørregaard  Shallots and lovage with Havgus cheese and yoghurt whey  Suddenly we were back on Champagne to match the next dish! André Beaufort 2008  Kale, wild shots and leaves with oysters and goat milk.  Norwegian langoustine with grilled cauliflower, lots of flowers and a juice of plums and beach rose  The definite highlight of the evening, both in taste and looks!  The pairing for the langoustine was Jean-Marie Berrux "Le petit têtu" 2013  The interior of Kadeau is designed like a small cottage with wooden furniture and even a cast iron oven.    Dom Frantz Saumon "Minérale" 2013  Chefs with tattoos plating your dish, as it should be  Grilled turbot with new onions, fermented cep mushrooms & mussels  Onto red wine and we got a Domaine Chandon de Briailles "Les Lavières" 2011  The main dish was yet another highlight...  Pork with yellow beets and pumkin  We had seen a picture of the bonfire on Instagram before we arrived and we had to copy it. The image looks nice, but the real thing was so much better.  Live fire. The smell. The warmth.  Markus offering us some wine to go with the cheese  Champ Divin Cuvée Pollux Jura 2009  As the sun was setting we were asked if we wanted to enjoy the final plates outside, sitting by the second bonfire.  We accepted the offer and moved out for the last rays of a setting sun  The dessert wine pairing; Elixir De Bobal Cueva Mariano  Blackcurrant, cream and salsify  Rhubarb, blue cheese, fermented honey and birch  Good night Bornholm  Grilled apples on sticks to end the meal
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Henriette & Henrik
Stammershalle Badehotel was our home on Bornholm for three days when we were there with Visit Denmark. We say home because that's what it felt like. Stammershalle is nothing like a hotel in the traditional sense. The owners, Henriette Lassen & Henrik Petersen, make you feel welcome like a dear friend from the past. All of the decoration inside is done by Henriette, as she is an upholstery professional, and it feels like she has made the entire hotel her house.
More than anything Henrik & Henriette wanted to make their hotel restaurant a destination for the locals on the island. If a local Bornholmer would be asked by a tourist where to go, then Stammershalle should be in the top five list of advices. We find this to be a great philosophy, and even believe they have succeed with this goal to a great extent. This also makes them less dependent on tourism, which is concentrated around the spring and summer months on Bornholm.
Built by a German in 1911 who had his own zoo in the backyard with lions and bears. One hundred years later, in 2011, it was bought by Henrik & Henriette. Located along the northern coastline of Bornholm, not far from the city of Gudhjem (God's home), in a beautiful rocky scenery. Waking up to the view of the Baltic Sea every morning is the best start of a day we could imagine, and it makes us want to go back to Bornholm as soon as possible.
Good morning, Bornholm!
The hotel restaurant "Lassens" is also one of the main destination for foodies visiting Bornholm, in addition to Melsted Badehotel and of course restaurant Kadeau. Head chef, Daniel Kruse, is part of the Danish culinary team and was named chef of the year in 2012. He has previously worked as a pastry chef at Michelin star restaurants Formel B and Søllerød Kro, and won many prizes for his sweet creations.
Coffee and cakes in the lounge - Stammershalle style
In Lassens restaurant they strive to satisfy all the senses, and the food looks as great as it tastes. As many of the ingredients as possible are gathered from the local area, very much in line with the Bornholm mentality. However, Henrik points out, sometimes they simply feel like oysters and foie gras. Hard work the last couple of years has even resulted in a place in the White Guide. Without further ado, we present to you the evening's meal.
Before dinner we were welcomed in the lounge with some snacks and a glass of champagne. Pickled celeriac and smoked "Nyr". The "cigars" are filled with brandade.
Nordic nibble. Kohlrabi with tartar of trout.
Our favorite flower on Bornholm, "Kodriver" or Primula, on the left.
More snacks as we sat down at the table, presented in an egg shell with smoked foam
Cured reindeer and a dust of cheese powder
Even the bread & butter serving looked beautiful. The malt bread tasted with honey was almost fought over at the table, but luckily the kitchen kept it coming.
First dish; lumpfish roe with cucumber and apple marbles, and sour cream with mussel broth
One of many delicious wines we had during the dinner, old and new world. Here is a Chardonnay 2012 from Hamilton Russell Vineyards in South Africa
Grilled octopus, deep fried octopus ring, onion filled with potato, pickled onion, a soy sauce with ginger and decorated with ramson flowers
French rooster leg, smoked pork belly, rhubarb, potato, parsley cream and nasturtium
Second rooster serving! This time it was the breast with parsley butter
Savory dessert; Jerusalem artichoke, lemon and hazelnut
A deconstructed pineapple Solero, vanilla panna cotta ball, raw milk ice cream and white chocolate crumble
Stammershalle's take on the "Karen Blixen" cake originating from the pastry shop La Glace in Copenhagen. Karen Blixen was a Danish author who had a coffee farm in Africa. A kind of Sachertorte with coffee mousse and variations of chocolate.
A chef preparing our coffee snacks
Canelés and macarons for the coffee
The breakfast at Stammershalle is one of the best hotel breakfast we have experienced. Everything was freshly made from the same kitchen we dined in the previous evening. We could choose between a variety of ham & cheese, bacon, sausages, scrambled eggs, tomato salad, five types of homemade bread, overnight oats, five types of homemade jams, four different beverages, and more variety of yoghurt and cereal toppings than we knew existed.
Yoghurts made with love by the host, for the guests to enjoy
Homemade jams in flavor combinations like seabuckthorn & apple, vanilla & lemon, strawberry and lavender, gooseberries & star anis and blood orange & grape.
Homemade juices with our favorite on the left; apple & strawberry.
Room no. 1 at Stammershalle!
Can't complain about nothing
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June 2021
AuthorsI am Andrea, or as my friends call me, Jinx. I am a foodie living in Berlin, eating my way through life. Here are my recipes, cooking events, dining experiences and more... |
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