Finally my Barcelona blog post online. As I don’t like talking wrong about people, I will say most of my pictures were “lost.” So after gathering some of the images, I downloaded to my Mac, iPhone pictures and some other ones I got back. I finally finished this.
Last year I needed a vacation. So why not Barcelona? Haven't been there since I became a mom, love their food, and they happen to speak one of my mother languages. But to be honest, I was a bit skeptic about being in my old "Party Town" with a toddler. We were invited to spend some days at Barceló Raval. It is a beautiful and centric hotel in Barcelona filled with art, elegant interior and the most beautiful (sexy) light for selfies or bed games if you are not traveling alone ;)
The cool thing about the location of this hotel is that you can walk around the city and leave your car parked. As a celiac, it is always hard to travel. Many countries have no gluten-free alternatives (Sorry France for bashing you), But Barcelona was a tremendous Gluten-free destination.
From small stores full of fresh fruit to huge markets offering cured meats, and seafood. A paradise for Gluten intolerants. Of course, you can have bread, but who needs this when you can have oysters with Cava and Ibérico with cheese?
I love traveling off-season. In October it was like Norwegian Summer, some days were pretty hot, but in the mornings a trench was needed. Here you can see Pepa early in the morning wearing a Mint & Berry Trenchcoat, Tiny Cottons t-shirt, Zara kids Jeans, Adidas Stan Smith kicks and Acne Studios beanie at 7 am. And before we were wearing shorts and sandals.
My favorite breakfast/brunch place was Caravelle: A very cool and Scandinavian style place that serves fantastic coffee. It was so good; we went there two times. They have a large gluten-free selection — for example this tortilla staple with poached eggs and avocado.
Or these "sunny side up" fried eggs with mushrooms and avocado. All eggs were on point and the second time around I had the Spanish breakfast that had pork with pork and a side of pork :)
Walking around Barcelona was fun. No need to move too much, and for a two-year-old, it was quite ok. The narrow streets and balconies are a must-see. Pepa was wearing a jumper from 1+family, a Nike jacket and Suicoke Sandals with Hipsterkid sunglasses.
Pepa wears a "coord" tank top and shorts from Gray Label, Nike jacket Socks with Adidas Stan Smith sneakers.
Another place I enjoyed wasDüal Café. A tiny spot next to the market hall. They had as well many gluten-free things (if you aren’t vegan) like this tortilla with mushrooms and tomatoes or a massive amount of delicious Iberico ham with a poached egg with hollandaise sauce.
After a great breakfast and walk, we needed a Mom-Daughter nap, but first some time at Barceló Raval´s terrace, they have an incredible 360° view terrace, and you can see the whole Barcelona from up there while tanning or cooling down in the pool. At night, that terrace turns into a hot summer party with live music and cocktails.
At Barceló they have a great gluten-free selection at breakfast and in the evening as well. They made the whole dinner gluten-free. Starting with some bubbles and cheese chips, Toast with hummus, patatas bravas, and zucchini rolls deliciously filled.
For the mains, fish with steamed veggies and for me a tender beef with sauce over mashed potatoes, I was not missing gluten at all!
A must do for someone that hasn’t been in Barcelona yet or if you are traveling with kids is go to Barcelonetta beach and enjoy the view while sipping Sangria and eating some mussels. Be sure to ask if they come with flour cause some of them do. Some Patatas Bravas are always welcome as well.
There is a fair as well, where kids can do some bungee, drive cars and do some vehicle crashing or drive on the Ferris wheel. I always have loads of fun and Pepa had a blast.
Pepa wears jumper from and hat from MarMar, I wore: Do nothing club shirt, vintage shorts, bag from Ebeth and sunglasses from Ace & Tate, and my favorite fun lipstick from MAC: Ruby Woo.
One of the things I like about Barcelona is that you can take the car and drive around, finding beaches and small towns and that is what we did. We saw beautiful beaches and hidden pearls when we decided to drive up north along the coast.
Most places were closed because it was off-season, but at least one restaurant per beach was open. They were very friendly about me not eating gluten and added extra eggs or meat. I didn't felt bad or left out because of gluten.
My tiny mermaid loves water so much that she was in every beach, pond or swimming pool wearing swimming diapers you can find at every supermarket in Barcelona or with her favorite bathing coord suit from Tiny Cottons with SPF 50 protection we got from Littlehipstar. The flamingo was from the store next to the beach in Lloret de Mar.
If you follow me on Instagram, you could have seen some outtakes of the trip and videos like this one. Yes, I was in love with this oversized T-shirt from On vacation club, I wore it almost every day as a dress or at the beach. Hooray for huge shirts.
I will return to Barcelona for sure. It is very celiac welcoming and kids friendly, the off-season is my favorite season as it isn’t full of cars and tourists, but you can still enjoy the warm weather and beaches.
Since a couple of months, it is legal and possible to buy insects for food in Zwitzerland. You can actually jump into a supermarket and buy some mealworm patties or locust falafel. Can you imagine?
Some years ago, when I went to the famous NOMA restaurant in Copenhagen, I had the pleasure to eat ants and crickets, So I am ok about eating bugs.. yeah BUGS!
I was invited by Visit Zürich to their food week called Food Zürich. And one of the events I signed up for was the "Essento Dinner - Insekten Genuss" by Pfefferbeere. An Insects Dinner, A full 5 course dinner just using insects. That sounds exciting, right?
The dinner was in a beautiful building, looked like we were in the theater backstage: Raw walls, props, paintings. A very used Atelier. Beautiful.
Waiting for us was a table serving Marius Blanco 2016 and 3 kinds of insects: Mealworms with salt, crickets and locust with curry powder. They were exquisite and super crunchy. like chips or popcorn.
It was an open kitchen, so we could see the guys from Pfefferbeeren work. The first course was pickled quail egg with mealworm "soil", watercress and balsamic pearls. It was a perfect combination of soft and crunchy. The soil was delicious, but it was weird to see the little parts of the worms while eating them. Still, mouth-watering.
Our Sommelier of the evening, Thierry, paired this dish with a swiss wine Chasselas Cru de Champrevéyres, Neuchâtel. Delicately fruity, flowery and silky.
While we were finishing our wine, the kitchen was already busy. They were making little nests that would hold the mealworm and locust soup and next to it, the black mealworm panisse over rape butter. This was absolutely my favorite dish of the evening. The little "brownies" were salty and crunchy outside and soft like melted cheese inside. I wish i had a bucket full of those while watching a movie... just WOW.
We had the same wine as pairing, the sommelier chose this wine because it is so versatile that fits this two courses. a really good match.
And now... There was loads of smoke coming from the plating table. I had to run quickly there to see the magic happening. It reminded me the time I had dinner at the chefs table in Maaemo. loads of Nitrogen making a thick mysterious mist.
This course was kohlrabi ravioli filled with peas cricket and a forest berries gel. I loved the idea of not using pasta to make this ravioli. I will definitely try to recreate this at home. Stay tuned!
The wine pairing for this course was Tremenda from Alicante. Beautiful wine, intensive, with a hint of berries... very elegant.
Some logs starting to arrive and the kitchen was filled with rosemary scent. The grilled locust pinchos were sticking of the logs. There were 3 kinds of beauties: BBQ, Tahini and rosemary. My fave was BBQ. On the side: rosemary potato boats, hazelnut-mayo-salsa and quark. They were served all together in the table, so I am showing you the potato boats still in the pan ;)
The wine of choice was a Petit Verdot from Alicante as well, a strong and intensive wine. My favorite of the night. you could taste a flavour of dark berries in this one.
The cooks started looking like mad scientists and it was time for dessert. Nitrogen clouds started filling the room and we all started making pictures, videos, instagram stories and just going Ohhh-Ahhh. This was ice cream in the making.
Meanwhile the Barolo di Villa a very sweet but delish Recioto della Valpolicella appeared in the table and we couldn't wait for the dessert. It was a brownie with flower pollen and mealworms with a cricket covered in caramel on top. A mealworm-nut ice cream next to it. When we turned around there was spider webs made out of cotton candy and sweet crunchy locusts where hanging from them.
A delicious perfect evening that wasn't missing meat, it tasted marvellous and even tho it was weird to see little legs and heads, it was adventurous and exciting. I cant wait until there is legal to buy insects in Germany.
Thanks again Visit Zurich for let me be part of this gorgeous event!
For the ones that dont know much about the Peruvian culinary tradition, we have loads of cultural influences. One of the best outcomes of it, is the Japanese influence. What brings us Nikkei, a combination of Japanese and Peruvian cuisine that has become new trend amongst Europe.
I mean, Sushi mixes perfectly with ceviche if you think about it. Combining Japanese dishes with Peruvian flavors and techniques has a remarkable effect. The minimalism and delicacy of Japanese food meets the rough freshness and spiciness of Peru. a deadly combination for every foodie around!
Both are so similar, yet so different. But what is Nikkei? or what does the word mean? Nikkei people are Japanese emigrants and their descendants who have created communities throughout the world. And Nikkei food, for me, is the evolution of Japanese food where these communities live.
I was in Peru this May, and I was dying to eat some Nikkei again after 14 years living in Europe. I had to Taste the trend. Sadly I couldnt go visit Micha, my childhood friend and owner of the number 13 of the 50 best restaurants in the world, but I got to take a little time to visit Osaka and get delighted with all the flavours this cuisine has to offer.
I went there with my family. And we started with some delicious Nikkei Cocktails made with japanese and peruvian fruits. Each of them tastier than the other. I got the Pisco Punch Osaka as i loved the one I tried at the Super Foods Event from last december.
We started with 2 Tiraditos. Tiradito is a Peruvian dish of raw fish, cut in the shape of sashimi, and of aspect similar to crudo, and carpaccio, in a spicy sauce.
Carpassion: Salmon, passion fruit honey, watercress and crunchy dough and Osaka Tataki, a grilled seared tuna, oriental citrus sauce, togarashi and negi.
After the tiraditos, we ordered a nigiri platter. A dream of Foie Gras, Shrimps and truffles. It was mouth-watering.
- Hotate Truffle: Fan shells, white truffle butter and lemon
- Tuna Foie: Tuna, foie gras, teriyaki sauce and Maldon salt.
- Evil Ebi: Prawn, BBQ Osk and chalaquita.
We followed the Nigiris with Nikkei Makis that included Antiku, Prawns tempura, negi and seared loin with Nikkei anticucho sauce. And Spicy Crunchy, a maki made out Prawns batayaki, crab pulp, crunchy quinoa and togarashi.
And before we decided on the main dishes, we had to try at least one Peruvian Izakaya. This was a great name for it as it means Japanese Tapas. We went for the beautiful Mariscos al Fuego, or Seafood on Fire! it just melted in your mouth and left you yearning for more! An amazingly made mix of seafood sautéed in butter, togarashi and lemon.
The main dishes arrived! As a huge fan of Yuzu, I ordered the Niku Kabayaki, a Wagyu slices, kabayaki and yuzu butter. I loved the fact that you could grill your own meat and the sides. OH MY! an onion marmalade and fried peruvian cassava.
The rest of the family ordered these amazing dishes:
- Salmon Tentsuyu, a salmon confit in lime oil, negi and avocado tempura.
- Pato Mochero, Crispy duck leg over wok rice, cecina and shiitake with honey of tumbo
- Shiromi a la Brasa, White fish marinated in shoyu with crispy garlic sauce, almonds and Peruvian peppers.
- OSK Wok, Wok rice with vegetables and shrimps.
We had a great night, everything was highly pleasant to the taste. For me, this culinary fusion is the best I have ever tried. And IMHO, everyone should try this beautiful love child between Peru and Japan.
I tested the trend, And I got even more hungry for it as I was before this meal. Damn, I will even try to make some Nikkei recipes for the blog!! If you are in Lima and you want to try some Nikkei besides Osaka
- My friend Micha's Maido
- Costanera 700 a restaurant I had the honor to work with years ago
- Mesa18 from the Legend Toshiro Konishi
Me and my daughter went backpacking through Vietnam last March. We went around, stopping in places like Ho Chi Minh (Saigon), Hoi An, Da Nang, Ha Noi, Halong Bay and Phu Quoc. We explored these amazing places, making new friends and tasting loads of different foods.
In Vietnam, It is impossible to really go wrong when it comes to food. Vietnamese people know their stuff, and their food is for sure amazing. Here I made a list of things IMHO are a MUST TRY when you are in in this culinary destination.
1. Bun Cha Ha Noi
Or as the locals call it "Obama Bun Cha". I had to laugh so hard when I heard they call it Obama. The story is that during a 3-day-visit to the vietnamese capitol, Ex-President Obama and Anthony Bourdain had a cheap meal in tiny plastic chairs. It was everywhere on Social Media, Everywhere! They both said it was delicious while drinking some local beer and having a great time.
I decided to try this fatty grilled pork, served with noodles at the same place he did. But the locals told me the best place to eat them was at Bun Cha Nem Cua Be Dac Kim.
Bun Cha Ha Noi is served in different bowls and you have to mix it all in your plate. Rice Noodles, Braised pork slices, Pork meatballs in a delicious sauce, fresh herbs, Chili, garlic and the best: Spring Rolls.
You are supposed to add the chili and garlic to the sauce and dip the noodles and herbs before you munch them. It was mouth-watering! Dont be afraid to sit in a plastic chair in the middle of the street, it is totally worth it.
Restaurant: "Bun Cha Nem Cua Be Dac Kim" - 1 Hàng Mành - Ha Noi
2. Pho or Soup at the Lunch Lady
The Lunch Lady is almost a Landmark in Saigon. Or at least she should! I heard from several foodies, bloggers and travel eaters (like my pal Nick from Eatacity) that I should get there and try the soup of the day. What I mean with this, is that she has a rotating menu, a different dish every day of the week.
Thi Thanh aka. The Lunch Lady, Warmly welcomed us (after a sweaty 2-hour-walk with a baby on a carrier) and we were the last customers of the day. We almost didn't make it... damn heat! But we were there and we got our table served in 2 seconds. Spring rolls, sweet potato and shrimps fritters (Bahn Tom) and my soup: Bun Bo Hue!
Bun Bo Hue is a Spicy beef and Pork soup with vermicelli noodles. Full body and loads of taste. The pork sausages reminds me of a bratwurst somehow, and the beef meat was as soft as is gets. It was an explosion of umami in my mouth.
Thi Thanh surprised me with her knowledge of german. She was in Germany many years ago and she can have a fluent conversation. The ladies closed the stand and we kept talking about food and Germany (i eat very slow) What a great afternoon.
Street Food: "Lunch Lady" Saigon 23 Hoang Sa St., District 1 - Ho Chi Mihn
3. Cao Lau
We were staying at a Homestay next to the beach, And the lovely hostess told me to try the restaurant Sen at the beach. I took Pepa and my towel and went for a swim and after some hours enjoying the sun and some local beer, we were ready for food. And after reading a bit online, Cao Lau was the one to try.
I was really amazed by this regional dish from the town of Hoi An. It reminded me on "Tallarin Saltado" from Peru. Pork sauteed with chili and onions, served on special chewy rice noodles and some fresh mint and coriander with it. I am a sucker for Tallarin Saltado, so this one became instantly my favorite dish of the trip.
This special noodles can only be made in Hoi An, they are like Soba noodles, but they are not made out of buckwheat but reis. The rice has to be stone ground and mixed with ash and water. The ash is made with firewood from the Cham Islands. The noodles are cut and then cooked three times with firewood. The water to cook the noodles is also very special because it only comes from specific wells in Hội An. This is why Cao Lau is a dish that can only be prepared in Hội An.
Restaurant: "Nha Hang Sen" - 12 Lạc Long Quân, Cửa Đại - Hoi An
4. Vietnamese BBQ
To cover more areas in the island of Phu Quoc, I rented a scooter. Everytime I passed next to the BBQs on the streets of the island I got soooo hungry. I asked the people working at the resort we were staying where was the best place to eat this. They told me that they go all together to celebrate birthdays or special occasions at the "No Name" BBQ place. So I had to try it, What a great name!
You could choose the ingredients next to the grill and make your own mix. I chose a whole squid, okra, pork ribs and some other small things. After a short while, All came to the table and it was amazing! the taste and freshness of the ingredients left you licking your fingers. I had to order more food as Pepa was eating it all.
The warmth, music and atmosphere was like eating in a backyard with friends while listening people having fun and watching the dogs wander around. I wish I was more hungry to try more things, but the heat was killing me those days.
Restaurant: "No Name BBQ" - Ông Lang, Cửa Dương - Phu Quoc
6. Hot Pot
Hot Pot has been a favorite of mine for a long time. There was this tiny restaurant in Oslo I used to go all the time. While walking through the night markets I saw some fishtanks with live seafood, and I thought it was just for buying, for an aquarium maybe? But I was so wrong!
I met a great family at the resort and we took our scooters to the night market. We were starving and found a place at the market that was filled with locals. Hot Pot was a great choice for 3 adults and 3 kids. You choose the living fish and seafood and they bring it to the table with a hot pot filled with broth. You add the food and 5 minutes later is ready to eat.
The kids wanted shrimps, so we got this gigantic ones and they were in heaven! The hot pot was great and it was more than us could eat. I really like eating very hot dishes when is hot outside, it cools me down in a way. I totally recommend trying a hot pot when you are in Vietnam!
Night Market: "Night Market Phu Quoc" - Khu 1, Dương Đông - Phu Quoc
7. Sugar Cane Juice
Sugar cane juice or Nuoc Mia or just Mia is served EVERYWHERE in Vietnam. It is a yellow semi-sweet, tropical refreshing drink that is perfect for the HOT HOT days and nights. The sugarcane produces a really musty, tropical flavor. The froth is irresistible.
Stands selling Mia are everywhere They have a machine to grind the sugar cane. The sugar cane gets pressed through a few times until there is no liquid left. The sugar cane carcasses are left in a pile in front of the machine.
Stand: "Nouc Mia", Everywhere in Vietnam
8. Market Food
I know sometimes Asian markets don't look like a place to eat food. They look dark and dirty and probably the best place to get food poisoning. But you HAVE TO eat at a market in Vietnam!
There is a few tricks to it:
- Eat food that has been fried or boiled
- See if the ice was made by a machine (cold beverages) do not drink anything containing self made ice.
- Clean your chopsticks and spoons with desinfectant
- See when they open your beer/drinks
- If you are still afraid, avoid fresh leaves of lettuce and soy sprouts
We both had food at the market and we were not sick at all. I had a delicious soup and spring rolls with a local beer, it was terrific, we went around to see what else to try. (OMG my hair was SHORT!)
I found a lotus seeds drink (AWESOMEEEEE!) very refreshing and it has Anti-aging properties. And on my way out of the Ben Thanh Market, I found a Lady selling Mang Cut or Purple Mangosteen, it is a bit pricey (4 units for the price of a meal) but definitely a delicious fruit.
Market: "Ben Thanh" - Đường Lê Lợi, Bến Thành, District 1 - Hồ Chí Minh,
9. Vietnamese Contemporary Haute Cuisine
I was very curious about the "contemporary" Vietnamese Food. I was looking for a high end restaurant to try the most delicate version of their food fused with non-vietnamese ingredients. In the island of Phu Quoc, next to my Resort was the best restaurant on the island: Mango Bay. A beautiful restaurant by the beach where you can enjoy dinner while watching the sunset.
After a whole day at the beach with our new friends: Ina & Lisa from Germany, we headed to Mango Bay. We had seafood tempura, chicken wings, spicy watermelon Squid salad, bun cha, stuffed squid, vietnamese pancakes in between others.
The sunset was beautiful, the location and food was just dreamy and romantic. The price was higher than a regular meal, but the amount of food was incredible. I don't think any of us were able to finish the dishes.
Restaurant: "Mango Resort & Restaurant" - Cửa Dương - Phu Quoc
10. A place where just locals eat
Get out of your comfort zone! I walked through many places in Vietnam that didn't seem like it was a restaurant or a sanitary place to eat. Though all this places where PACKED with locals. Very close to my hotel was a street that is know for their great restaurants called "De Tham".
I walked many times through that street before I dared to get in a restaurant and eat the food. It was a restaurant where they repaired scooters, filled with old parts, oil cans, screws and more. Every night it was filled with locals eating in plastic chairs drinking beer and singing karaoke.
We went inside, And I ordered Banh pho xao bo, a Stir-fried rice noodles with beef made with Mì quảng Noodles (the rice cousin of a pappardelle), a side of Garlic Morning Glory and to go WAY out of my comfort zone: Hot Tamarind Chicken Feet.
The food was outstanding, as well as the service. It was by far the best Chicken feet I ever had. Dont get scared of trying a restaurant in Vietnam that doesnt look like a european restaurant, I am pretty sure you will have an amazing dinner and feel like a local sipping noodles while listening some vietnamese karaoke.
Restaurant: "Qua An 26" - 28 Đề Thám, District 1, Hồ Chí Minh
Extra Tip: Kem Cuon
And as a final tip, for those hot night walks through the streets, Try the Ice Cream rolls! Check for the stands that make them with real fruits instead of syrups. I ordered a Mango Chocolate one. And here is how they make them:
Stand: "Kem Cuon", Everywhere in Vietnam
Have you been to Vietnam? Have you try any of these? Any tips for my next trip there?
«Would you like to come with us to Bornholm?» they asked us from Visit Denmark. Yes, please, sign us up! To get to experience this culinary gem of an island in Denmark has been a dream for a long while. For some reason we have postponed it, probably since it has been easier to just visit Copenhagen or other big cities. You should not postpone it! If you like the pleasures of good food, produced organically by passionate farmers, with ingredients foraged and prepared by dedicated chefs and served on handcrafted ceramics, Bornholm is your dream destination.
To get to Bornholm from Oslo you need to stop in Copenhagen - luckily! Kastrup is our favorite airport with so many exciting shops, great pastry and an excellent champagne bar; Le Sommelier. While you’re there, if you are like us and you like to have the internet at your hand while abroad, make sure to get a Lebara SIM-card at WHSmith once you enter the transit area. The card cost only DKK 49, and you can top it up with 2GB (DKK 49), 4GB (DKK 79) or 5GB (DKK 99). So much more data traffic for so much less money than your regular subscription can offer.
Our first stop after the airport was Le Port. A beautiful restaurant along the road, clinging to the hill side, overlooking the Baltic sea. We had a delightful lunch here, what the Danes call «frokost», which is confusing since the same word in Norwegian means breakfast. The most memorable part of this meal was actually the anis bread, which the owner told us her mother-in-law made. A secret recipe that she hoped to learn herself one day.
When the last beer had been emptied we headed to Sandvig beach for some kayaking. Most of us hadn’t tried this sport before, but we had a good instructor and avoided any accidents or capsizing. We got to see the beautiful cliffs of Bornholm’s northern coast line. As you can see we were not alone on this trip. In addition to Julie from Visit Denmark we also got to meet Gjermund from Magasinet Reiselyst, Helle Tjaberg from Eget Rom, and Helle Valebrokk from Helle's Kitchen.
After kayaking we went to our hotel. There are hotels in this world, and then there is Stammershalle Badehotel. We often choose AirBNB when we’re traveling, because so many hotels these days doesn’t offer any added value to your trip. They’re just a place to store your luggage and get some sleep. This Danish hotel reminds you it doesn’t have to be like that.
The owners, Henrik and Henriette, bought the hotel with the idea in mind to make it a place that locals would want to go for a great meal. Today it is actually a destination for foodies, with head chef Daniel Kruse, a Danish champion, running the kitchen. In the evening we got to experience his restaurant «Lassens» ourselves, with a 10 course meal that included a total of three desserts. We will have to tell you more about this meal in a separate post.
The next morning we woke up to the breakfast at Stammershalle. A breakfast which reflects the love this couple puts into every detail they present to their guests. Homemade jams, overnight oats, beautifully decorated yoghurts, freshly baked bread, and of course they had pressed their own juices.
Famous Danish chef Mikkel Marschall met us in the breakfast hall. Mikkel used to be the head chef at restaurant Kadeau on Bornholm, which is just his latest achievement in a long line of impressive restaurants he has worked at. Today he arranges, amongst other things, the cooking competition «Sol over Gudhjem» every summer on Bornholm.
We were lucky enough to have Mikkel as our guide the entire day. The journey started with a bike ride from the hotel, along the marvelous Bornholm coast, all the way to the town of Gudhjem - «God’s home». On the way we stopped to forage wild flowers and vegetables that we would need later the same day.
We visited local organic farmers and other producers and craftsmen on the island. We ate lunch at B’s Fiskeværksted in Svaneke in the middle of the day, where we got a taste of how fish’n’chips is supposed to taste. The day also included a stop by the store where the liquorice adventure «Lakrids by Johan Bülow» started and the ice creamery «Mermaids» where they make ice cream from raw milk and sea weed.
Later the same evening we prepared a dinner together with Mikkel, and we invited the very same farmers and producers we had visited during the day to dine with us. The feast was held at «Gaarden», a food culture house which actually officially opened earlier the same day. This experience was so unique and is something we will never forget, and the full story of this will be posted another day.
The following day was more relaxed. A short stop at the harbor in Listed to visit «Bay Frost», where the couple Sebastian Frost and Signe Bay run a jewelry shop, champagne bar and café together. Sebastian is a German jeweler who went to Bornholm for vacation, met Signe and never returned home.
She bakes traditional Danish cakes and serve the guests coffee. Last summer they invited two bartenders from Ruby in Copenhagen to make a pop-up cocktail bar in their café for five weeks. It was so popular they couldn’t serve everyone who wanted in for a drink, and this year they plan to redo it, but in larger scale.
At Listed harbor we also met by chance Ib Smith, a 65 year old retired Bornholmian, who goes fishing every day from his tiny fishing boat. Sebastian Frost told us that Ib gives them fish all the time, and it’s so fresh they can’t even use it immediately to make fish’n’chips because it just dissolves.
Our last stop with Visit Denmark was at Hasle Røgeri, an old fashioned herring smokehouse and the last one on the island to still do the smoking process the proper traditional way. It may come as no surprise that his place smelled of smoke and fish; an odor it takes some getting used to.
We finally got to try what could only be characterized as the Bornholm national dish; «Sol over Gudhjem». Where an egg yolk represents the sun over a smoked herring on rye bread with radish, onion and chives.
Andrea and me stayed an extra night, while the rest of our traveling company went home, only so we could visit the famous restaurant Kadeau. That experience was maybe our most memorable restaurant meal ever, and we will dedicate an entire blogpost to the evening later.
Check out GoBornholm for more info!
About 35 minutes outside of Stockholm city, in the area Djursholm, lies a small restaurant called YOLO. The name means, as you may well have guessed, "You Only Live Once". The philosophy is that you should threat yourself with something good a little more often. A philosophy we feel that we manage to live up to quite well ourselves. This restaurant became our favorite of the entire Stockholm trip, simply because the flavors were exceptional, the presentations were interesting and fun and the staff were super friendly. Thus, we would like to share all the dishes from this place with you.
We highly recommend that you take the subway out here if you find yourself in Stockholm. If our advice is not enough, then you will be happy to learn that the Swedish king, aka "Knugen", also loves this place. If it is worthy of a king, then it is worthy of you. Besides having Jonas Lagerström as head chef, the famous Swedish chef Jonas Lundgren is also involved in the concept and development of Restaurang Yolo.
If you are reading this blog from time to time we hope you enjoy our recipes, and get inspired by our travels and tips on where to dine. To follow our adventures more closely you can add "TwoFoodiesEat" in Snapchat for live updates, and follow @kleinjinx and @andershusa in Instagram where we post more frequently. To get reminders on new blogposts that are up, check Two Foodies Eating on Facebook and Instagram.
We love Oslo for the great coffee shops all over town, from Supreme Roastworks and Tim Wendelboe in Grünerløkka to Fuglen in the city, Mocca in Frogner and Java at St. Hanshaugen. However, Stockholm definitely has its share of decent brewing spots as well. These were our favorite stops for that sweet caffeine rush in the capitol of Sweden.
Drop Coffee near Mariatorget in the district of Södermalm is maybe the most well-designed coffee bar in Stockholm. Everything from the sign over the door, to the unique square boxes they use as packaging for their coffee looks beautiful. Since our last trip to Stockholm they have changed their brewing method from V60, and they now do Kalita in stead.
Johan & Nyström
Literally around the corner from Drop Coffee, about 50 meters in distance down the road you find Johan & Nyström. Johan & Nyström is sort of for Sweden what Coffee Collective is for Denmark. They have several locations, and they have expanded even to Helsinki. Each cup is still brewed with care, though.
Kafé Esaias is a small café in a relative off location near Tegnérlunden in Norrmalm. It is a perfect spot to waste a few hours, just people watching from the window, while you enjoy their espressos, lattes, chemex or other black brews. Make sure you also try the baked goods like the cardamom buns or canelés, and if you are really hungry you can get one of their mouth watering grilled sandwich loaded with melted cheese. Try the Reuben with sauerkraut or the more classic Croque Monsieur. They do not roast their own coffee, but in stead they buy it from other Swedish roasters like Da Matteo in Gothenburg. However, as for their brewing skills few places can compare. We actually had our favorite cup of coffee from the trip in this place, an excellent Chemex brew by John Dester.
John at Esaias tipped us off about Café Pascal, so we had to check it out. We took a stroll through the small park Tegnérlunden with beautiful surroundings, walked up to Observatorielunden, yet another pretty spot, and arrived at a buzzing café in the midst of the lunch rush. Everything on the menu looked tempting, but since we had already eaten a bit we simply had a V60 and a croissant. The croissants were too tempting not to try.
When we were invited to the Michelin event we decided to make a full Stockholm weekend out of it. Stockholm is an amazing food destination! There are so many great food spots to visit, and it was extremely hard to choose just a few to fit into our short foodcation. We were lucky to get to stay at our good friends Charlotte & Tom's place, and they also joined us for some of the dining experiences. Thank you, guys!
We'll share the highlights from our trip here, but check back later for another blogpost dedicated to our favorite coffee spots and one featuring the entire meal from Restaurang Yolo. Coming up!
The Flying Elk
The Flying Elk is the sister restaurant of two-Michelin-star restaurant Frantzén. It is a gastropub that serves rustic food. Check out their "frunch" on Saturdays and their special burger on Sundays.
We found this great breakfast spot, not to speak of amazing pastry spot, thanks to our friend enfoodie. Wienercaféet is a French style café with marble and gold decorations and pastries in all imaginable and unimaginable shapes and forms.
To our knowledge Råkultur serves the best sushi in Stockholm, and certainly the best sushi we ever had. Most of the menu items include ingredient combinations we haven't seen any other place. It is highly recommended to have a seat at the bar counter in front of the kitchen, so you can watch the chefs work their magic.
Charlotte & Tom took us to the monthly event "Out of Office" at the historical and majestical saloon Berns. Somewhat spontaneously we decided to drop by Berns Asiatiska for a quick nibble before our meal at Oaxen later. After all, Stockholm's playboy number one, Joachim, had recommended their dim sums as well.
Oaxen Krog & Slip is actually two restaurants and should be very happy with the new nordic Michelin Guide. The now two-Michelin star Oaxen Krog only serves a tasting menu, so we decided to keep it more casual and check out the Bib Gourmand spot Oaxen Slip in stead. We did not regret that decision! Little did we know that we would taste the best tartar we ever had, and end up eating a pig's head!
Anders had planned most visits to the last detail, but managed to miss that Adam & Albins matstudio did not serve lunch in the weekend. Alas! It will have to be for our next visit. Thus, we ended up at another very good alternative; Taverna Brillo. A place known for their great baking skills.
We get a lot of our restaurant tips from the people we follow on Instagram, and Restaurang Yolo is certainly no exception. It's doubtful we would ever have come across this place by chance, as it's located a good 30 minutes outside the city. Although it is extremely difficult to choose, Yolo is our favorite restaurant from the trip, simply because of the most rememberable flavors. We'll be making a dedicated blogpost for this place to be posted later, with all the dishes. Here's a teaser...
So, you don't think we have time for anything but food?
Well, that is wrong! We definitely find time to enjoy the time in between restaurant and café visits. One of the things we like to do is to walk in beautiful areas and look at pretty things. Like this view of the city from Södermalm.
I am Andrea, or as my friends call me, Jinx. I am a foodie living in Berlin, eating my way through life. Here are my recipes, cooking events, dining experiences and more...